In Tromsø, we get some extra company for the next two weeks: Peter, a former colleague of Klaus, joins us on board. Together, we set off south towards Bodø – a route that will take us once again through some of the most beautiful landscapes in northern Norway.
Of course, our first stop is to show Peter Tromsø’s highlights: the city centre, the bridge to Tromsdalen and the distinctive Arctic Cathedral. A short climb up the Sherpa Steps rewards us with a magnificent view over the city, the fjord and the surrounding mountains. In the evening, we attend an organ concert in the cathedral. The atmosphere is wonderful, although the music does not appeal equally to everyone. Nevertheless, it is a memorable experience.
The next morning, the weather is much more unsettled, but we set off for Sommarøy, the “Norwegian Caribbean”. As soon as we drop anchor, the cloud cover begins to break up. The white sandy beaches and turquoise water fully live up to its reputation as the “Norwegian Caribbean”. We take a short trip by dinghy around the harbour and go ashore.
Our plan to return to Andenes and finally see the whales is thwarted by the wind. We set off towards Finnsnes, but soon find it almost impossible to sail as the wind is blowing strongly straight into our face. Finnsnes offers us a safe harbour, but the town itself is not particularly attractive. The planned hike into the mountains has to be abandoned, as the peaks remain hidden beneath a thick blanket of cloud. After a short walk through town and some shopping, we return to the boat.
Our next destination is Harstad. We manage to sail for a while, but then have to start the engine, as the narrow waters do not allow us to tack effectively against the strong wind. Soon, even under engine power, ANORI is struggling more and more in the steepening waves, making less than three knots over ground. It becomes clear that we will not reach Harstad in a reasonable time and need an alternative. A small anchorage in the south of Senja offers shelter from the strong southwesterly wind. We carefully set the anchor and pay out plenty of chain. With the riding sail set, ANORI settles down calmly while the wind continues to sweep over the mountains outside.
The following day we continue to Harstad, but the weather is still poor and our fishing luck is no better. Only a small redfish takes the bait, which later becomes a meal for the gulls. In Harstad, a festival with concerts and street performances is taking place. Despite the grey skies, it brings life to the town. Our personal highlight is the evening concert by the Swedish folk group Kraja in the old Trondenes Church. The four voices blend together beautifully in the historic surroundings, creating an extraordinary soundscape. We quickly agree: this is much more our taste than the organ concert in Tromsø.
From Harstad, we continue to Lødingen, again under engine power, but this time against a much weaker wind. The weather has improved slightly, and in the evening we can still take a walk through Lødingen.
As the wind stubbornly continues to blow from the southwest, we decide not to head directly to the Lofoten Islands, but instead make a crossing of the Vestfjord to Skutvik. The sailing is quite enjoyable, but once again the heavens open, and we are unable to leave the boat in the evening.
Before continuing our journey the next day, we take a walk through the attractive surroundings and, quite by chance, end up at the Arctic Salmon Center. We are invited to join a tour of one of the modern fish farming facilities. With a high-speed RIB, we first take a short trip across the fjord and then head out to the fish pens. We gain an insight into modern salmon farming, one of Norway’s most important industries. It is encouraging that our critical questions about issues such as diseases, parasites and the impact on nature are openly discussed. Afterwards, we enjoy lunch – naturally with salmon on the menu.
In the afternoon, we set sail towards the Lofoten Islands. Our first stop is Kabelvåg, as Peter would like to visit the Lofoten Cathedral. With the Vestfjord Regatta approaching, a small tent village has already been set up on the central square. We walk up to the cathedral and stroll through the village. The next morning, we visit the Lofoten Museum; with light cloud cover and occasional sunshine, the surroundings are beautiful once again, and in June the meadows are full of blooming flowers. Just before 1 pm, we cast off at exactly the right moment as the first regatta participants begin sailing into the harbour.
Another Lofoten classic is on our itinerary: Henningsvær. We spontaneously decide to stay for a night. There is space at the familiar pontoon of Fiskekrogen, so we are well settled and enjoy a good dinner in the evening. The obligatory stroll through Henningsvær, including a visit to the famous football pitch, is not to be missed, and the weather is becoming a little friendlier again.
The next day, we head for Reine, where we plan to climb Reinebringen. On the way, we make a short detour into Nusfjord, another of the Lofoten’s highlights. Shortly before reaching Reine, the sea rewards us with two unforgettable encounters: first, a humpback whale appears, and a little later we spot a pod of orcas hunting.
After a cup of tea and a cinnamon bun, we set off for the summit of Reinebringen. In just over an hour, we climb nearly 2,000 steps to reach the top. We enjoy the famous view over Reine and the surrounding landscape, although the summit is quite crowded and the weather is not quite on our side.
As stronger southwesterly winds are forecast again, we retreat to Sørvågen the next day. On the way, we catch a pollack and a cod, securing our dinner. A short visit to the Lofoten waterfalls and the surrounding lakes rounds off the day.
While ANORI is safely sheltered in the harbour, we take a bus trip to Ramberg. We abandon our hike up Nubben, as the path is very steep and slippery. Instead, we enjoy the long sandy beach at Ramberg, and the nearby café offers delicious pastries and hot drinks. In the evening, we have dinner at the Maren Anna restaurant in Sørvågen. It is packed, as the Norwegian national team is playing and an enthusiastic crowd has gathered in front of the big screen. We experience the fans’ “Ru” at close quarters – and Norway wins.
On 1 July, we reach Bodø again after a fast sailing passage across the Vestfjord. During a walk through the city, we discover a few new sights: the cathedral and the famous Aspmyra Stadium, home of the football club Bodø/Glimt. We say goodbye to Peter, who heads back to Germany with many new impressions and memories. For us, a new chapter begins: our time in Norway is coming to an end, and the next great challenge awaits – the crossing to Iceland.
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