Three days in Bergen and a detour to Flåm
After our arrival in Bergen in the early afternoon of 1 July, we still had enough time for a first walk ashore: through Bryggen with its colourful, restored wooden warehouses, on through the harbour area and as far as the railway station, to get our bearings for the planned trip to Flåm.
A day in the fjords: Gudvangen – Nærøyfjord – Aurlandsfjord – Flåm
The next morning our small logistical chain began. Because we had booked at short notice, not all train connections were still available, so we first travelled by bus and train to Gudvangen. In hindsight this turned out to be a stroke of luck, as it gave us a variety of perspectives on the mountain and fjord landscape.
In Gudvangen we boarded an electrically powered vessel that took us through the Nærøyfjord and on through the Aurlandsfjord to Flåm. The weather was kind to us and the fjords were overwhelming. The impressions are hard to capture in photographs – it really has to be experienced in person. Before boarding the Flåm Railway we enjoyed a Viking menu with a beer tasting – very touristy, but still quite enjoyable.
The Flåm Railway – Norwegian engineering with a view
Another highlight was the return journey on the Flåm Railway to Myrdal. The route is famous – and quite rightly so:
- Over a distance of around 20 kilometres it climbs some 866 metres in altitude.
- The maximum gradient is 55‰, making it one of the steepest standard-gauge railway lines in the world.
- The line runs through 20 tunnels, including a large spiral tunnel inside the mountain (see map).
Along the way the train stops at the thundering Kjosfossen waterfall, where the red-clad Huldra dances to gentle music. A perfect opportunity for a photo – and for astonished faces on the platform, ours included.te. Gelegenheit für ein Foto – und für staunende Gesichter auf dem Bahnsteig, uns eingeschlossen.
Bergen from above
On our third day in Bergen the weather remained sunny, and we took the opportunity to ride the Fløibanen funicular. From the top there is a wide view over the city, the harbour and the surrounding hills – a panorama one never quite tires of.
Less successful was our search in Bergen for a yard willing to repair the broken bracket for our flagstaff. So for the time being we are sailing with a smaller version of our German flag on the backstay – not good seamanship, and certainly no match for the giant flags flown by the Norwegians and Danes.
Three days under way: Butlandet – Silda – Hareid
When it was time to depart towards Nikøy, part of Butlandet, the rain returned. As we were rafted alongside two other boats and the outer one intended to stay, casting off became a small coordination exercise. First under engine through the wet grey soup, later with the wind from astern and finally without rain – a conciliatory end to the day as we tied up in Nikøybrygge. A short walk ashore (with a few showers) revealed a beautiful island landscape.
The next day we continued to Silda, where we again ended the evening with a walk around the island. This was followed by the leg to Hareid, including rounding Vestkapp – one of the most prominent and notorious headlands on Norway’s west coast.
In calm weather it showed its benign side, but in strong winds conditions can quickly become uncomfortable, as Atlantic swell and coastal currents meet here. Norway is even planning a ship tunnel through the Stadlandet peninsula to make this passage safer in the long term.
Three days in which we mainly wanted to make distance – and that is exactly what we did.
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