Estonia

We begin our stay in Tallinn with an orientation walk through the famous Old Town, ending the day with dinner at the ‘Peppersack’. In the following days, we explore the city in more detail. It rains on and off, including during the guided tour of the Old Town.

On Toompea Hill, we visit the St Mary’s Cathedral. Inside, the numerous coat-of-arms epitaphs of the Baltic German nobility stand out and dominate the walls. For a long time, the church served as both a spiritual and a social centre of the region.

In the Rotermann Quarter, we get to know one of Tallinn’s more modern districts, characterised by contemporary architecture, sculpture groups, numerous bars and restaurants, and a lively atmosphere.

A cycling tour into the surrounding area, a walk to the harbour, and visits to several shopping malls round off our stay in this highly interesting city, marked by a sense of constant activity.

Our next destination in Estonia is Dirhami. We sail around 60 nautical miles in good wind conditions. After the busy atmosphere of Tallinn, the quiet place by the water appeals to us, and we enjoy fresh fish at a local restaurant.

Forecasts announce storms for the coming days. We choose Kärdla on the island of Hiiumaa as a harbour to wait out the weather. On the way there, we narrowly avoid a thunderstorm, and even the berthing manoeuvre in 25 knots of wind proves to be challenging.

While the storm rages for the next two days, we first take a cycling tour through the inland of Hiiumaa, to Tahkuna Lighthouse and the memorial to the Estonia ferry disaster, continuing on to Kõrgessaare. The route takes us through varied nature and extensive forested areas. On the following day, with winds of around 35 knots, we stay on board Anori, do laundry in the harbour building, and are glad to have a secure berth alongside the pier. The boats at the floating pontoon move noticeably in the swell. From onboard, we watch the windsurfers, who seem to enjoy the conditions.

Our next stop is Kuivastu on Saaremaa. The passage there is not straightforward. With headwinds and a remaining swell from the storm, even our engine struggles, and we make very slow progress at times, down to 2–3 knots. Heavy rain and poor visibility add to the conditions. In the harbour, with a cross-offshore wind, berthing Anori proves difficult, and we rely on long lines and assistance from people on the quay.

Alongside the pier lies a rather unusual boat, Tiir. Its owners have already helped us with the mooring, and we get talking. We are then invited aboard Tiir for a visit. Later, we sit together on Anori, exchange national beers, and share information about our routes and boats.

The onward passage to the capital of Saaremaa is again affected by shifting winds and frequent rain showers. After 56 nautical miles, we berth in Roomassaare, the harbour serving Kuressaare.

From there, it is a short ride of about fifteen minutes by bicycle, so we prepare the bikes in the morning. The weather has calmed, and the sun is out under a clear sky. We first visit the old fortress, which is very well preserved. The castle served for a long time as the seat of the bishop and as the political centre of the region. Its compact structure and preserved interior spaces still clearly reflect its former function.

In the afternoon, we play a round of golf at the Saaremaa Golf & Country Club.

The following day, we cycle into the centre of Kuressaare. Fortunately, we find a hairdresser who spontaneously gives us both a much-needed haircut.

On the market square, we watch a performance of traditional folk dancing. We then wander through the streets and stop for a light meal. In the afternoon, we set off on a longer cycling tour, first along the coast to the southwest and then across the island. After 58 kilometres on the bike, we return to Anori, having combined physical activity with exploring Saaremaa.