Senja

From Andenes, we sail south to Senja and the Senjafjord Hotel in Frovåg. During the passage, we notice numerous naval vessels, apparently monitoring activity at the missile base on Andøya. For this area between Andøya and Senja, a night-time sailing restriction is in place during these days.

At the Senjafjord Hotel, currently run by Germans, we immediately feel at home and enjoy a good dinner in the restaurant. Meanwhile, the washing machine and afterwards the dryer are running – quickly sorting out our laundry mishap.

The next day brings persistent and heavy rain. That means: boat work. In between, a herd of reindeer – our first ever – crosses the grounds and disappears into the hills behind the hotel. We also watch the many fishing boats, whose crews are processing their abundant catch directly on the quay.

The following day is dedicated to the Dronningruta on the Stonglandseidet peninsula. We take the dinghy to Hofsøya to the Bygdemuseum and secure it at a nearby pier. There is no one around, and the museum is closed. After a long lunch break, the bus takes us punctually to the opposite end of the hiking route.

The coastal hike immediately captivates us: on one side a spectacular mountain panorama, on the other moorland coastal landscapes with low vegetation. After three hours full of impressions, we return to Anorikuluk and head back to the hotel.

A fresh easterly wind makes it easier to leave the Senjafjord Hotel the next morning, and we sail up the west coast of Senja. The mountain scenery is almost impossible to put into words. But with the mountains come strong downdrafts, shifting winds, and calm patches – making for challenging sailing conditions.

With offshore winds and strong gusts, it takes us a second attempt to bring Anori safely alongside the pier in Hamn i Senja. Once everything is securely moored, we take in the impressive surroundings and later treat ourselves to a wonderful skrei dinner at the resort restaurant.

Before continuing the next day, we explore the area on a hike to the trailhead of Hamn i Senja’s “local mountain”, Sukkertoppen. Breathtaking views open up in every direction. Yes, Hamn i Senja is quite touristy – but it is also a very special place in an extraordinary setting.

We use the remaining wind of the day to continue on to Senjahopen in the Mefjord. Once again, this leg proves challenging, with highly variable wind conditions: reefing, shaking out sails, engine on, engine off – a constant back and forth. Eventually, we enter the sheltered harbour of Senjahopen and secure Anori alongside a solid guest pier. The high mountains around us already take the sun away by around 9 p.m., but in return the harbour is wonderfully protected.

The next day, we unpack the bicycles for the first time. Apart from some light mould spots on the bags, they have survived the winter well. We start with a trip to the local Matkroken for supplies, then bring our provisions back to the boat by bike.

Afterwards, we continue to Mefjordvær, a well-developed fishing village further north in the fjord. There, we set out on a short but beautiful hike up Mount Knuten and to the lighthouse. A late lunch at the restaurant at Mefjordbrygga rounds off the visit.

Back in Senjahopen, we have meanwhile gained neighbours at the quay: a boat from Switzerland has tied up, and we quickly get talking. We help each other with water hoses, shampoo, and information, and exchange experiences as well as plans for the coming season. So far, we have met only a few other boats – which makes encounters like this all the more special.

The following day, we stay in Senjahopen due to the forecast of strong winds. The sky is overcast, so longer hikes do not make much sense. In the early afternoon, it brightens up a little, and we walk down to the fjord to enjoy the view of the mountain range opposite, with Segla and Hesten. Both peaks are planned as our next hiking destination.

Finally, we set off to sail one fjord further to Fjordgård, the starting point of the hike. Along the way, we even catch a cod for dinner. In Fjordgård, however, there is no suitable space available at the pier, so we continue on to Husøy – a pure fishing village with corresponding harbour activity. After a brief discussion, Anori is safely moored alongside large fishing vessels at the quay.

By now, the sun no longer sets, and even late in the evening the view of the surrounding mountains is overwhelming. We have ordered perfect weather for our hike. By dinghy, we return to Fjordgård to the trailhead of Hesten and begin the ascent.

The route is only two kilometres long, but it climbs steeply over more than 500 metres of elevation gain. Remaining snow patches and mud make the going more difficult. There are also some very steep sections, partly over loose scree – not for those with a fear of heights. Even during the ascent, we are repeatedly rewarded with magnificent views of Segla and the surrounding peaks.

Once at the top, the view quite literally takes our breath away. In every direction, the mountains of Senja rise sharply from the sea, many reaching up to 1000 metres and still partly snow-covered – all under a brilliant blue sky.

On the descent, we clearly feel our still untrained muscles. We take the dinghy two miles back to Husøy and agree that this hike was something truly special – a perfect conclusion to our stay on Senja.

After a hearty dinner, we eventually fall into our bunks, exhausted.