Originally, we had planned to sail from the Höga Kusten to the opposite Finnish coast. After a close look at the charts and harbour guides, we quickly abandoned the idea: too many rocks, harbours too shallow – not suitable for Anori. So we turned our attention south. Destination: Åland.
On 20 July at 14:30, we cast off from Docksta. As forecast, the wind was light. The first miles were under engine, later we managed to sail fairly well for several hours. Overall, the passage became a mix of motoring and occasional sailing. We wanted to make distance, and eventually the Ålands lay ahead. Approaching in the second night proved complicated and confusing with all the lights. Tired, we chose the safe route through the marked channel.
Enskär, a small harbour at the far west of the Ålands, is said to be a hidden gem. When we arrive, it feels more like a meeting place for the initiated. Full.
Without much discussion, we go with Plan B and continue to Sandviken near Eckerö. At 05:00, the anchor is down. After two nights on passage, the moment when the boat is still and the engine is silent feels especially pleasant. We sleep in. In the afternoon, we take the dinghy over to Eckerö and go for a short walk across the quiet island. Åland welcomes us in a calm, unforced way.
The next morning, we weigh anchor at 10:30. Finally, proper sailing again – moderate wind and a good pace. After the hours under engine, it almost feels like a small reward. We enter Mariehamn’s East Harbour. The town is compact and shaped by its maritime character. We stroll through the streets, visit the harbours, and enjoy the time.
The next day, a taxi takes us to Kastelholm and the Ålands Golf Club. We play the Slottsbanan, enjoying the calm, green expanses with views of the castle. The course, with its many water hazards, demands concentration but remains fair. And the setting itself is well worth the trip.
The following day, it pours. Not just a little – really heavy rain.
So, rain programme: the Pommern and the Ålands Sjöfartsmuseum. The museum impresses with its extensive collection covering all aspects of maritime life: cargo ships under sail and engine, shipbuilding, navigation, safety at sea, and a special room dedicated to Cape Horn.
After the museum, we visit the Pommern. She is the only P-Liner preserved below deck in its original state, allowing a real sense of the cargo hold dimensions. We feel a particular connection to the P-Liners, as we have spent winters with Anori in Travemünde, where her sister ship, the Passat, is berthed.
When we step outside again, the rain is still falling in torrents.
The next day, once it’s dry again, we take the bikes. From the traditional sailing ship harbour, past St. Olaf’s Church, and back to Kastelholm – this time for a guided tour of the castle and a glimpse of medieval life. Just under 70 kilometres in total. The landscape isn’t dramatic, but it’s varied: fields, small roads, and water appearing again and again. In the end, we feel satisfied – and definitely feel the distance we’ve covered.
After three days in Mariehamn, we seek the quieter side of the Ålands again. We anchor in Sandvik on Kokär. We wave to La Belle Époque as she departs; unfortunately, there’s no direct contact with Claudia and Jürgen. Afterwards, we go ashore once more for a short walk, then return to the boat.
The next day, we weigh anchor early. The sea is calm, and the mood in the early morning among the many islands is beautiful.
Åland offered us more than just a stopover: two nights of passage, a lively little capital, golf with castle views, a rainy day exploring maritime history, a venture into the Middle Ages, and finally the quiet of the archipelago.
Now we continue to Finland. Once again navigating between buoys, rocks, and open water – with good wind.
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