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Stockholm – A return to a familiar city

Period: 06 - 11 July 2023   Distance: 90 nm

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On the morning of 6 July, everything was ready for the next leg. With a favourable southerly wind, we cast off. The first miles through the narrow fairway were under engine, then we continued under sail to Östra Slangholmen, where we spent the night at anchor. The following day, we sailed to Erikstorpsviken, enjoying another calm night at anchor.

From Erikstorpsviken, we entered the Baggenstäket on the approach to Stockholm. After the emotionally challenging days, we were now looking forward to the lively city.

Stockholm holds a special place for Klaus. During his time at Ericsson, he visited frequently until the end of 2002 and had two apartments over the years: first on Södermalm near Västerbron, later on Kungsholmen almost right on the water at Norr Mälarstrand. After more than twenty years, it was interesting to see what had changed, what had remained familiar – and whether he would still find his way.

We had a berth reserved at Wasahamn and arrived there at midday. The afternoon was spent on a walk through Gamla Stan and to the Royal Palace.

Back on board, we realised that having a berth right next to the amusement park also had its acoustic downsides: the piercing screams of the passengers on the roller coaster and other attractions left little peace in the cockpit. Fortunately, the rides close relatively early.

The following morning, we explored Djurgården, our front yard for the days in Stockholm. The island combines museums, the aforementioned amusement park Gröna Lund, and extensive parklands, and is well connected by ferries and public transport. In the afternoon, we visited the Lightness of Being exhibition by Peter Lindbergh at Fotografiska. We are very fond of his work, so the visit naturally took up a good deal of time.

The following day, our bicycles were back in action. Our tour took us along the north shore of Kungsholmen, over the bridge to Långholmen, onward to Södermalm with a detour to Sickla, and finally back via Gamla Stan and Östermalm to Djurgårdsgatan. Stockholm is excellent—and surprisingly stress-free—to explore by bike.

On the last day in Stockholm, it was time to focus on technical matters. Jefa had sent the spare parts for the magnetic clutch of the old autopilot to the harbour master, and we were now able to carry out the repair. Many thanks to Jefa in Denmark for the straightforward handling and the telephone support. After that, there was still time for a bike ride to Lidingö and a shopping stroll.

Upon our return to the marina, we noticed a beeping—the typical alarm sound of boats. At first, we were surprised that apparently no one was attending to it. As we approached Anori, the beeping grew louder, and we sensed trouble. Before our bike ride, we had run the washing machine. It was leaking and had triggered the bilge alarm. The harbour master had tried in vain to reach us, concerned about our boat—and because the entire marina had been exposed to the alarm for hours. So the washing machine also went on the to-do list.

There was still plenty to do in Stockholm, but after four days in the big city, we were eager to head back out into nature.

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