Since Hanko is a popular harbor and we are right in the middle of the high season, we don’t want to arrive only in the evening. So at 5:10 a.m., we weigh anchor. The weather forecast predicts only light wind – around 6 knots, gusting up to 15 knots. Accordingly, the passage alternates between sailing and motoring. The trip is calm and uneventful.
This changes when we arrive in Hanko around 5:00 p.m. The harbor is already quite full, and with Anori we have limited options due to size and draft. There is a suitable spot, but a motor yacht would need to move slightly for us to fit completely alongside the pier. The crew refuses, even after the harbor master asks them to move. After mooring, our bow protrudes into the fairway. Both we and the harbor master are quite puzzled by this behavior. In the evening, we take a short walk through the town and have dinner at one of the harbor restaurants.
The next morning, we set off early again toward Helsinki, this time in very different weather. We enjoy consistent sailing wind of 4–6 Bft. Rain starts in the afternoon, slightly dampening our mood, but it only becomes really unpleasant when entering Helsinki: it begins to pour, and visibility becomes difficult. At 6:00 p.m., we finally moor in Katajanokka Harbor, right in the city – and in the most expensive marina of our trip so far, at €135 per night.
The next morning, the sun shines again. We wait for Jutta, a colleague of Birgit, and her daughter Sofia. They arrive punctually, carrying a large bag of Finnish treats – gifts typically brought when visiting a boat. Among them are strawberries. We have rarely had strawberries so good.
As locals, they take the lead, and we stroll together through Helsinki. First to the main cathedral, then across the harbor market, and along the Esplanade, the city’s central promenade.
Later, we head toward the central station and from there continue to Töölönlahti, a water area in a park right in the city center. A pleasant, quiet oasis in bustling Helsinki. There stands the central library Oodi, which opened in 2018 and is one of the city’s most important public new buildings. Its architecture immediately stands out with a wide, cantilevered, curved roof, extensive glass, and an open design. The library functions as a public meeting place. In addition to reading rooms, there are workspaces, studios, workshops with 3-D printers, music rooms, and many open areas for spending time. Many people come simply to work, meet, or relax. Opposite the library is the equally striking Helsinki Music Centre, home to several of the city’s orchestras.
At midday, we drive to Espoo, where our company Bayer is located. We have a light lunch at the sailing club by the harbor and then take a walk along the Espoo beach. After that, Jutta and Sofia say their goodbyes – not without giving us several tips for the coming days.
The following day the weather is again rather gray, but we still take the ferry to the Suomenlinna Sea Fortress.
The fortress complex spans several islands just off Helsinki and is today a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Construction of the fortress began in the mid-18th century, when Finland was still part of Sweden. It was intended to protect access to Helsinki’s harbor and developed into one of the largest sea fortresses of its time. Later, the Russians took over the facility, and after Finland’s independence, it became part of the country. Today, a few hundred people still live on the islands, and between bastions, old barracks, shipyards, and small harbors, a spacious open-air area has developed.
We stroll along the paths of the fortress, repeatedly enjoying the views of the archipelago and back toward Helsinki. Along the way, we also notice the narrow channel through which all ship traffic – including large cruise ships – must pass to enter and leave the harbor.
Overall, we really like Helsinki. The city feels lively, and the architecture is remarkably varied – from classical buildings and Art Nouveau to modern wood and glass structures.
A special thanks goes to Jutta and Sofia, who showed us their city from a local’s perspective. This made our day in Helsinki truly memorable.
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